Hayes hfx-9 hd manual

Check and re-torque the disc screws after 12 hours Warning: Do not touch the disc immediately after use - it will be hot. Mounting the Caliper to the Frame or Fork Warning: When following any of the procedures below, be sure to keep your hands and fingers from getting caught in the disc.

Remove the wheel s. For some installations it will be necessary to mount a mount bracket to accept the Hayes Disc Brake caliper. Mount the mount bracket to the frame or fork using 2 M6 x 1. Torque the bolts to in-lbs Mount the caliper to the frame or mount bracket using 2 M6 x 1.

Snug the bolts, but leave them loose enough so that caliper will move on its slots. Caution: For post mount forks you will need to use 2 M6 x 1. These bolts are supplied in your aftermarket kit or supplied from the bike manufacture. Failure to use the longer bolt may result in fork damage that will not allow you to tighten down your caliper properly.

Re-install the wheel s. Squeeze and hold the brake lever. While holding the brake lever, shake the caliper to position it in its natural centered position over the disc. While squeezing the lever, tighten the mounting bolts. Warning: Do not adjust the caliper while the caliper is hot. Warning: Do not adjust the caliper while the wheel is spinning. Release the lever, spin the wheel. Check that it spins freely and that the gaps, between the pad and the disc, are equal.

If the gaps are unequal, or if there is drag, readjust the caliper position by loosening the mounting bolts and adjusting the caliper as needed. Hint: A white piece of paper can be used as a background to help sight down the disc looking for equal clearance between the pads and disc. Repeat above procedure for other wheel. The hose assembly procedure is different for the different brake models and design variations.

Pay close attention to which procedure applies for your Hayes disc brake system. Hose Removal Master Cylinder Hose Removal To take the hose off of the master cylinder end, slide the hose support down the hose.

Remove the hose nut by loosening the nut and sliding it all the way down the hose. Slide the hose off the end of the master cylinder. There will be some residual fluid in the hose and master cylinder. Be careful to avoid spilling that fluid. Not doing so may result in a broken cartridge tip. A new compression bushing will be needed each time the hose is re-installed.

Remove the old compression bushing by cutting the hose next to the compression bushing. The cut needs to clean with no fraying ends. Note: Check the hose length for adequate travel. If too short, replace hose. Caliper Hose Removal - Straight Connection 1.

To take the hose off the caliper end, loosen the hose connection with a 10mm open-end wrench. Remove the hose connection completely from the caliper. Be sure that the hose connection seal is not lost. Note: The end of the G2 caliper hose is a permanent crimp. Therefore the connection cannot be trimmed to size or repaired.

Shortening of the hose must be done at the master cylinder end. If the caliper hose connection is damaged, the hose must be completely replaced with a new hose with a permanent crimp attached. Hose Assembly Caliper Hose Assembly - straight connectiion 1. Locate end of hose with the permanent crimp attached. Place the hose connection seal over the threaded end. Make sure the seal is not twisted. Install hose connection to the G2 caliper.

Install the banjo bolt through the banjo. Be sure that there is a banjo o-ring on each side of the banjo. Assembly 2. Position the angle of the banjo to your desired location for your frame or fork. Locate the end of the hose without the permanent crimp.

Cut the hose to the desired length with good scissors or cable cutters. The cut end must be clean and perpendicular to the hose itself. Slide the nose cone onto the master cylinder side of the hose. Slide the hose nut over the hose.

Be sure it is inserted flush with the end of the hose. Note: The HFX-9 hose nut has external threads and the compression bushing is a gold color. Slide the hose into the master cylinder and install the hose nut. Be sure that the hose is inserted completely into the master cylinder end.

Be sure the hose remains inserted while tightening. Locate the end of hose without the permanent crimp attached. Slide HFX-Mag nose cone onto the hose. Slide the HFX-Mag hose nut and compression bushing over the hose. Always use a new compression bushing. Slide the hose over the barbed end on the master cylinder cartridge and install the hose nut. Bleed the system. Bleed Kit Assembly: 1. Screw the cap onto the end of the bottle. Cut a 2" section of hose. Push the short section of hose over the cap until it slides past the ridge on the cap.

Push the long section of hose into the master cylinder bleed fitting Note: There are three fittings with the kit. The silver aluminum fitting is to be used with the HFX The black plastic fitting is to be used with the El Camino. The system is filled by pumping fluid from the lowest point at the caliper , through the system, to the highest point, the bleeder on the master cylinder. Read them carefully, since instructions vary for the type of brake system you have.

Use of any other fluid can cause the rubber parts to degrade and cause the brake to fail. Warning: If you get any brake fluid on the brake pads, discard them and replace with new pads. If you get any brake fluid on the disc, clean it thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol.

For skin contact, brake fluid should be washed off in flowing water. For eye contact, the eye area should be irrigated with flowing water immediately and continuously for 15 minutes.

Consult with medical personnel. If effects occur from inhaling brake fluid fumes, move to an area with fresh air. Consult a physician. If brake fluid is ingested, induce vomiting and consult medical personnel. Used brake fluid should be disposed of according to local laws. Remove the wheel. Remove the brake pads so that any spilled fluid does not contaminate the pads.

Using the tab in the center of the pad backing plate, pull each pad toward the center of the caliper and out. There is a spring that holds the pad in place. That spring snaps on to the post at the center of the piston. Push the caliper pistons all the way into their bores using the box end of a 10 mm end wrench.

Walk the piston back and forth until the piston is all the way back in the bore. Do the same thing on the other side. Position the bike in a stand so that the brake caliper bleeder screw is perpendicular to the ground, and so that the bleed screw HFX-Mag or reservoir plug HFX-9 on the master cylinder is the highest point on the brake system. For a left hand lever, turn the handlebars all the way to the right, and for the right hand lever, turn the handlebars all the way to the left.

Note: For the HFX-9 the bike should remain horizontal to the ground, and the lever should remain parallel to the ground. The other end of the hose should go into a cup or bottle to catch the excess fluid.

Be sure not to submerge the end of the hose in fluid. Hint: Taping a spoke to a bottle and bending it to hook around the handlebars makes a convenient hanger. Note: The HFX-Mag master cylinder bleed fitting is a Phillips head screw and requires the use of the clear cone shape bleed fitting included in the bleed kit.

Note: The HFX-9 master cylinder reservoir plug is a plastic cap, which needs to be removed with your fingers or a small flat head screwdriver. The HFX-9 requires the use of the silver aluminum bleed fitting included in the bleed kit.

Close the caliper bleeder. Place the hose from the fluid bottle onto the caliper bleeder. Pump the fluid bottle until there is no air in the hose. Squeeze the fluid bottle firmly—forcing fluid into the caliper for a count of five. Stop squeezing - until the bottle returns to its natural shape. When the squeeze is released, air should be drawn out of the caliper.

Continue alternately squeezing the fluid bottle, for a count of five, and releasing until no air bubbles come out of the caliper. Bleed Fittings After all the air is out of the caliper; squeeze the bottle until fluid comes out at master cylinder with no air bubbles. The balljoint goes through it with very little force. The burrs on its inside edge make for a very unsmooth lever feel, its jumpy, unprogressive, and tends to stick.

Note, to avoid this, use proper bleed kit adaptors. The pictures below are of the cylinder body chamber and res. Note that there are two holes from the cylinder chamber into the res, and 2 more through the res cap, not shown but only one in the res cap can be sealed via the bleed hole plug.

I suppose this helps if your oil pressure is really really high for some reason, it will auto leak through the lever instead of busting your hoses..? After you have the cylinder re-assembled and dropped into the body, the fun begins.

Without a snapring tool, this can be a pain. Then, push it in with a small flat screwdriver into its groove. It should snap in on one side, then do the other. It takes a few tries to get it right, so be patient. How-to rebuild Hayes HFX